Monday, April 9, 2012

Touring Hong Kong

Before we got to Hong Kong, I expected that the first few weeks would feel like vacation and that somewhere down the line it would hit me that this was real life.

I may still be in that honeymoon period, but so far our time here has felt very normal. Many people keep asking “what have you seen, what have you done?” and while I’ve done a fair amount of sightseeing, one of the amazing things about this experience is there is no rush to see the entire city in four days like I may have done on a vacation.

So while we still have a lot to see and do in the city, here are a few things we have done:

We rode the tram up to Victoria Peak on our first day in Hong Kong. At 552 meters above sea level, the Peak is the tallest mountain on Hong Kong Island. While the weather was a bit overcast, it was a great way to understand the layout of the city. From the Peak you can see the north side of Hong Kong Island which includes Victoria Harbor, many of the residential areas, the downtown areas, financial centers and tall skyscrapers.  From the Peak you can also see parts of the south side of HK Island, which is home to stretches of sandy beaches.

While the city looked quite large and intimidating on my first day here, I’ve since learned that it’s incredibly manageable and walkable. The skyscrapers have acted as city markers for me throughout my weeks of wandering around. At any point, I can look up and locate some of the well-known buildings (the IFC towers, the HSBC building, the Bank of China) and understand where I am in the grid. 
The view from the Peak on a clear day (photo courtesy of thepeak.com.hk)

I guess Hong Kong Park would be the equivalent of Central Park. But it’s somehow totally different. First of all, parks here don’t have grassy knolls or playing fields. They have koi ponds and manmade waterfalls, walking paths, stretching areas for the elderly (literally, that is what they are called), and lots of species of trees, plants and flowers, all identified by signs. Hong Kong Park is 19 acres of just that in the Central district (downtown area). Inside the park there’s a conservatory, Tai Chi gardens, turtles, birds, exotic trees, and all around, you are surrounded by tall, shiny, skyscrapers.

The Zoological and Botanical Gardens is just a few blocks away. Also tucked into the hustle and bustle of the city, the gardens house more than 1,000 species of plants, 600 birds, 70 mammals and 40 reptiles. I’ve loved going to visit the monkeys and orangutans here. And what’s even better, this entire park is free to the public.

One thing I have noticed is how much Hong Kong seems to value parks. I find them tucked into alleys and behind big buildings all over the city. I love waking up in the morning to look outside our window, which overlooks a park, and see a handful of locals practicing their tai chi. And this happens at every park I walk through, no matter what the time of day. The parks are never empty. There are always people sitting on benches enjoying their lunch or a book. It seems that people really make time here to sit and breathe. I could get used to that!



                     

From left: The Lippo Buildings stand tall above Hong Kong Park; a manmade waterfall turtles take time to sunbathe.

We took a taxi to the south side of HK Island to a beach town called Stanley. It’s amazing that after just a 20 minute taxi ride we were sitting on the beach.  This side of the island boasts very different views than the north side. Looking out onto the water here, you see endless water, small islands, and there’s no sign of chaotic city streets.

But alas, even in Stanley, there is some chaos. Stanley is famous for its big market where you can buy all sorts of random stuff: electronics, clothes, art, jewelry, you name it.

We walked through there just for fun, but mostly we just sat outside soaking up the sun. 


Last night we enjoyed a traditional Chinese seafood dinner in Sai Kung Town. This area was a lot of fun and very picturesque. While last night’s weather was a bit wet and dreary, the scenery was gorgeous, green mountains to one side, beachfront and islands to the other.

The picturesque waterfront at Sai Kung Town.
Dragon boats sit idle.

Along the promenade near the pier were small docked boats selling fish. People were crowding around to pick their dinner. You could even bring this fish to a nearby restaurant for the chef to prepare.

We opted to get our fish at the restaurant, which was an experience. The restaurants here have huge tanks of seafood and fish and you literally have to go buy your dinner at the tank.  I’ve never seen such huge grouper, crabs, scallops and squid. It was wild.

And then…it was delicious! (Sorry little fishies.)



  


Clockwise from top left: crowds line up to buy fresh fish straight from the boats; seafood tanks at the restaurants where you choose your own dinner; gigantic grouper; clams in a chili and garlic sauce;  cuttlefish fill the tanks.






Man Mo Temple:
The temple was built in 1848 and while it has gone through many rebuilds, much of the original structure remains intact.  The temple was originally dedicated to two gods: Man Cheong, the God of Literature and Mo (which refers to Kwan Yu) the God of War.  While Man Mo Temple is a tourist destination, you still see many locals praying and leaving offerings inside. 

Candles and offerings of flowers and oranges at the Man Mo Temple; Burning coils of incense hang from the temple's ceiling. 



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